fashion

I am not sure if I was ready for the Equinox, but I want to be—A review of Remuse: Equinox V.

26 March 2018

I have always seen my relationship to clothes as mode of visual expression that is personal, performative and at times a kind of artifice. This perception was challenged by Remuse, a Melbourne based label, and their trans-seasonal presentation Equinox V, which called me to think about how fashion can be about authenticity, and connection.

It was more an evening of cultural experiences than a fashion show, which presented a holistic way of positioning clothing within a wider framework of music, dance, spirituality and community.

Held at The Substation, in the industrial and sparse suburb of Newport, even the act of getting to the show had caused me to travel out of my comfortable inner northern buble and across the CBD. The Substation, named so because it was once a Metropolitan train substation, is an event and gallery space which idealises the aesthetics of industrial space. For the Equinox, its upstairs gallery was filled by smoke machines, and the sounds of ambient music. Tentatively walking in during a contemporary dance performance underway by Monica Faundez Valderrama and Tsuki Berghain along the ‘runway’. There was an otherworldly-ness in the way that light streamed through the smoke-filled air. Before the showing of the clothes, there was music by ChibCha, of Amaru Tribe, who created a warmth and intimacy within the large room.  So too did the  dancers of the Tunjos y Cantaros Ethnologic Dance Company, who stood out for their ability to draw you into their emotive and powerful performance.

Thus well primed by an hour of performance, the room was introduced the the spiritualism behind the collection, we were told that we would be transported to Venus and back though portals of each of Earth’s elements. There was here a fusing of spiritualism with futurism, as looks aligning to each element were sent down the runway. The diversity and individuality of the models was impactful, each was celebrated, and adorned with elements of gold, which contrasted with the more muted tones of the fabrics which were in shades of blue, green, beige, grey and black. The cuts of the clothes emphasised movement, fabric seeming to flow and float as some models walked. As all the models returned at the end of the presentation, walking together through the smoke they seemed to be futurist, Venusian angels.

And yet, as amazing as the runway was, coming away from the night there was an overwhelming sense that Equinox V was less about the beauty of runway and more the provocation of thought, embracing sense of community experience and a critical reflection on how we live.


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